The Barrier at Shirakawa
It was not until we finally reached the checkpoint, or barrier at Shirakawa that we felt we were really on our way at last. How well I could understand the poet-traveller of days gone by, Taira-no-Kanemori, who felt here that he wanted to send a message "Somehow to the capital."

Of the Three Great Barriers, this one in particular has always appealed to poets. I loved the trees in their summer green, though I could almost hear the poet Noin's "Autumn winds ablowing" and see Minamoto Yorimasa's "Crimson maple leaves." The white mantle of snowflowers and wild rambler roses made me think of poets who passed here in the snow.

One ancient hero, writes Kiyosuke, straightened his helmet as he passed this barrier and donned new robes.

Through the barrier gate
We passed, with gay snowflowers
For our new attire!