THE HILLTOP TEMPLE

In the domain of Yamagata is a hilltop temple called Ryushaku-ji. Built in 860 by the great abbot Jikaku, it is situated in a particularly pure and tranquil spot. Many people told us we ought to see it, so we retraced our steps from Obanazawa, though the temple was about seventeen miles away.

It was still light, so after taking lodgings at a pilgrims' hostel at the foot of the hill, we climbed up to the temple on the hilltop. The hill consisted of massive boulders, one upon the other, out of which grew luxuriant pines and cypresses of great age, and the ancient earth and rocks were green with velvety moss.

The doors of all the lesser sanctuaries were closed and we heard not a single sound. But edging around the cliff and scrambling over the rocks, we finally said our prayers before the main Buddhist sanctum.

In the profound tranquility and beauty of the place, our hearts felt deeply purified.

In this hush profound,
Into the very rocks it seeps -
The cicada sound.