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Station 37 - Natadera
On my way to Yamanaka hot spring, the white peak of Mount Shirane
overlooked me all the time from behind. At last I came to the spot where
there was a temple hard by a mountain on the left. According to the legend,
this temple was built to enshrine Kannon, the great goddess of mercy, by the
Emperor Kazan, when he had finished his round of the so-called Thirty-
three Sacred Temples, and its name Nata was compounded of Nachi and
Tanigumi, the first and last of these temples respectively. There were
beautiful rocks and old pines in the garden, and the goddess was placed
in a thatched house built on a rock. Indeed, the entire place was filled
with strange sights.
Whiter far
Than the white rocks
Of the Rock Temple
The autumn wind blows.
I enjoyed a bath in the hot spring whose marvelous properties had a
reputation of being second to none, except the hot spring of Ariake.
Bathed in such comfort
In the balmy spring of Yamanaka,
I can do without plucking
Life-preserving chrysanthemums
The host of the inn was a young man named Kumenosuke. His father
was a poet and there was an interesting story about him: one day, when
Teishitsu (later a famous poet in Kyoto but a young man then) came to
this place, he met this man and suffered a terrible humiliation because of
his ignorance of poetry, and so upon his return to Kyoto, he became a
student of Teitoku and never abandoned his studies in poetry till he had
established himself as an independent poet. It was generally believed
that Teishitsu gave instruction in poetry free of charge to anyone from
this village throughout his life. It must be admitted, however, that this
is already a story of long ago.
My companion, Sora, was seized by an incurable pain in his stomach. So
he decided to hurry, all by himself, to his relatives in the village of
Nagashima in the province of Ise. As he said good-bye he wrote:
No matter where I fall
On the road
Fall will I to be buried
Among the flowering bush-clovers.
I felt deeply in my heart both the sorrow of one that goes and the grief of
one that remains, just as a solitary bird separated from his flock in dark
clouds, and wrote in answer:
From this day forth, alas,
The dew-drops shall wash away
The letters on my hat
Saying 'A party of two.'
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