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Basho and his Narrow Road to the Deep North
From Japanese Poetic Diaries
by Earl Miner, University of California, 1976.

Station 37 - Natadera

On our way to Yamanaka Hot Springs, the peak of Shirane regarded us from behind as we walked along. At the bottom of a mountain on our left we came upon a temple of Kannon. After Cloistered Emperor Kazan had visited the Kannons of thirty-three places in succession, he had this statue of the great Bodhisattva of Mercy installed, and it is said that it was he who gave the temple its name, Nata, made up from parts of "Nachi" and "Tanigumi." The rocks on the slopes of the temple are varied in shape. Pines now grown old were planted along them, and little reed-thatched temples have been perched on the rocky outcroppings. Altogether it is a fine place.

These stones excel
The stones of Ishiyama in whiteness:
The autumn wind.

We took the waters of the spa. Their efficacy is said to rival the waters of Ariake.

At Yamanaka --
Asters cannot match the fragrance
Of the life-giving waters.

The master of the hot springs lodge is called Kumenosuke, and he is still a youngster. His father had a taste for haikai , and years ago when Teishitsu of the capital visited here while still a fledgling poet, he was so put to shame by the performance of this lad's father that he returned to the capital, became a pupil of Teitoku, and so gradually became known to the world. They say that after he grew famous he took for his poetic teaching no fees from people of this one remote village. Of course all this is a tale of events long ago.

Sora has fallen ill with abdominal trouble. Because he has relatives at Nagashima in Ise, he is going ahead alone.

Walking, walking on,
Though I collapse I shall be buried
On a bush clover plain.

He wrote down the verses and left them with me. There are the sufferings of the one who goes, and the unhappiness of him left behind, each like one of two wild ducks lost from each other. I responded with verses.

From today the dew
Will erase the inscription on my hat,
"I travel with a friend."


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