Thirtieth, stayed at foot of Mt. Nikko. Hostler says: "They call me Hotoke Gozaemon. Honesty's a habit with me, which is why the name, so feel right to home," what he said. Impossible not to realize how Buddha appears upon this mean and muddled ground in just such guise to help shaman beggar pilgrims on seeing our host's simple sincere manner, frank and down-to- earth. Firm-grained and unassuming, the very image of the man of jen, worthy of all respect.

(April 1) First of Uzuki, called on the mountain shrine. Originally this mountain known as Futarayama, but when Kukai Daishi dedicated the shrine here, he renamed it Nikko. Perhaps with presentiment those thousand years ago of the splendor now gracing our skies and the blessings extended to the eight directions to the four classes of citizens living in peace. But with glory so full, so empty are words.

O glorious
green leaves young leaves'
sun light

(Apr 2) Mt. Kurokami hung with mist and still snow clad.

head shaven
at Mt. Kurokami
changing apparel
--(Sora)

Sora formerly Kawai Sogoro. In basho shade, eave to eave, helped at wood and water chores. Delighted at the chance to share prospects of Matsushima and Kisagata, offered to take on whatever tasks the journey would call for, at dawn of the day of departure had head shaven, assumed pilgrim garb and signalled the new life by changing name to Sogo. And so, the Mt. Kurokami poem. The words "changig aparel" weigh tellingly.

Climbed more than twenty cho uphill to find the waterfall. Plunges from over cavern a hundred shaku down to thousand-rock-studded basin below. Stooped into cavern to peer out from behind cascade known as Urami Falls.

for a while
to a waterfall confined
summer opening