Working with a couple of other people can help as they point out errors in your technique, figure out novel ways to do your route, and create a little friendly competition to aid motivation. But where do you start? Here are a few approaches to building a problem, of course there are many other ways to go about it, but this may help you get off the ground, so to speak.

Start

1. Start with an idea in mind, like a specific technique or move that you want to work on. i.e. mantle, dyno, crimps, drop-knee, etc.. Figure out a set of holds that force you to perform that move then add on a start and a finish.

2. Start with a random assortment of holds as in the game Pick Five and see what types of movement patterns develop. Eliminate, add or modify holds to adjust the level of difficulty.

3. Play Add 2 then adjust the difficulty as above, by substituting holds.

Bumping up the Difficulty
Often times people increase the difficulty of their problems by making the hand holds farther apart or using smaller holds. Don't limit yourself to these two tools alone. I find that the most fun and rewarding problems can be "unlocked" by applying the right technique rather than simply lunging or powering through them.

1. Pay attention to the orientation of the holds. Experiment with different rotations to come up with a handhold that forces a change in body position to achieve the best direction of pull.

2. Take advantages of features and the wall itself to get people thinking outside of the "climb by numbers" mentality that comes with following taped routes.

3. Consider the placement of foot holds to force changes in body position. Rather than always having footholds conveniently placed directly below the hand holds, try foot holds off to the side or high up.

Safety

Design your problems to challenge, not to maim.

1. Keep the "High Balling" to a minimum by staying below the max. height.

2. Avoid setting up dynamic moves that may launch people into an opposing wall or slam their knees in to a low hold.

3. Be mindful of the high risk body positions that can put tendons and joints in the danger zone, such as strenuous knee drops, small crimps and finger pockets, especially if they come at the end of a dynamic movement where a person may shock load their body in the high risk position.

4. Set problems that are appropriate for people's ability level, problems that are too hard simply lead to frustration or overuse injuries.

Installing Holds

If you are placing holds on the wall, keep a few things in mind to avoid damaging the holds or the wall.

1. Holds should be placed flush with the surface of the wall. If there is a feature, or curve in the wall that prevents the hold from sitting flat, the hold may break when you tighten the bolt.

2. Use the appropriate bolt for the hold. The bolt head should match the hole in the hold.

3. Use a bolt that is long enough to extend through the hold and get enough threads into the t-nut in the wall to keep it from pulling out.

4. Don't over tighten the bolts. If you crank the wrench too tight, the hold will crack under the pressure. Its much easier to tighten a loose hold than it is to repair a broken hold.

Bouldering Problems

Article and Photo by Ryan Ojerio

Creating bouldering problems to improve on physical or technical aspects of climbing can also be a great mental exercise. You may be working out at the gym, at your friend's homemade wall, at an outdoor bouldering area or simply climbing on the textured wall of a building in town.

The challenge is to come up with a sequence of moves that is at the limit of your abilities forcing you to push and expand them.