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Static and Dynamic Climbing
Article and Photo by Ryan Ojerio Dynamic and static climbing are like ying and yang; they're complete opposites and yet both types of climbing are essential to being a well rounded climber. Dynamic climbing refers to using momentum to carry you from one hold to the next; it may mean covering just a few inches or launching your body completely free from the rock in a 'full body dyno to latch a handhold high beyond your reach. Moving dynamically can be an effective and efficient way to compensate for 1.) lack of strength 2.) lack of reach or 3.) lack of technique. In each instance you may not be able lock off and reach for the next hold with a free hand so it becomes necessary to use momentum to carry you over. Performing dynamic moves successfully requires a combination of coordination, timing, speed and accuracy. Grabbing a handhold at speed takes good contact strength. It also helps to understand the concept of the 'deadpoint'. |
Imagine a ball thrown in the air, as it travels upward it slows eventually stopping momentarily at the top of its arc before beginning to fall downwards. That brief instant of time where the ball is suspended motionless is the 'deadpoint'. The key to successful dynos is to coordinate your legs, arms, hips and fingers to accurately propel your hand to the target hold so that it reaches it precisely at the deadpoint. Deadpointing the hold gives you the best chance of successfully latching it. If you aim too high then you'll be trying to grasp it as you are falling down and if you aim too low then obviously you'll miss it. Practice your timing and coordination on short boulder problems being sure to include a variety of grips and movements (i.e. up, sideways, short, long etc.).
Static climbing, on the other hand, uses no momentum to transition between holds. Instead it requires you to first position your body within reach of the new handhold and lock off with one hand as your reach. Static climbing requires good body position and lock off strength. Rather than focusing on power and contact strength, static movements work your grip strength and endurance. The main benefit of climbing statically is that you can maintain tenuous foot placements and you have time to search out the best handhold or grip position before committing to it. Practice static climbing by doing a route or traverse that is well within you ability level. Climb with a two second pause between when you put your hand or foot over a hold and when you actually latch it. This ensures that you aren't using any momentum in your transitions. You'll be surprised at how much you rely on momentum to climb!